While the more energetic members of the club were being dropped off at their various starting points, those of us in the home party made our way to St Arnaud and immediately checked out the local amenities; namely, the cafe/general store for hot pies and coffee. The DOC Information Centre was full of interesting info, which we decided to return to later as there was walking to do.
Wishing Campbell’s party well for their first night at Lakehead Hut, we walked a wee way with them. I was glad I wasn’t carrying the load they had on their backs.
Our party did a short walk on the Loop Track close to the village. The honeydew beech forest beside Lake Rotoiti was a great introduction to the area, giving us a taste of what was to come.
The next day, eager to get to the tops for a view, we took the St Arnaud Range Track to Parachute Rocks. Accompanied by birdsong (including a special encounter with a kaka) we zigzagged our way through the beech. Ascending steadily, we emerged from the trees to a wonderful view over the Lake and St Arnaud.
Two of us continued to the ridge summit, eager to see what was over the top. The view across the tarns and down to the Wairau River in the valley floor, with the craggy Richmond Range beyond, was well worth the extra uphill effort.
The next day we walked beside Lake Rotoiti, and after taking a water taxi to the far end of the lake, split into two parties.
One party left from Coldwater Hut and walked the western side, taking in Whisky Falls on their return to St Arnaud.
The other party began with a look at Lakehead Hut; the only inhabitants were were the swallows. The surrounding flat, swampy area was a bright yellow mass of marsh andbuttercups, a sharp contrast to the rest of the walk through trees and over rocky stream beds. There were plenty of opportunities on the eastern side of the lake to pop out of the beeches for view back to the mountain tops.
Thanks to Katy’s connections, we were granted the privilege of using the private access road to Rainbow Skifield. Once we’d reached altitude, we had panoramic views of the whole area.
And thanks to Neil’s capable driving of our trusty rental minibus, we didn’t actually have to walk until we were halfway up the cable-car route. The alpine flowers were a botanist’s delight.
After the mist lifted and we discovered the ideal graded slope of a ski track, we were all delighted by the extensive view from the ridge line. We could see Robert Ridge, Paddy’s Track (with Bushline Hut overlooking the Lake),St Arnaud Range, Lake Rotoiti, and St Arnaud in the distance.
The next day a change of landscape took us to Red Hills. The rocks here were too toxic (magnesium rich) for tree growth, resulting in scrub and tussock.
We drove out beside the Wairau River, with views of dairy pastureland, with mountains behind.
Shortly after the start of the track, we came across some derelict farm buildings, including an old tumbledown homestead and an interesting solid cob cottage. An isolated spot with lovely views. The track (part of Te Araroa) was well graded and we enjoyed the amble up through the manuka, listening to the bellbirds. Then it was back to base to welcome Campbell’s out party.
New Year’s Day, and time to collect David’s out party. The home party, having by now exhausted the very limited coffee venues in St Arnaud, took the opportunity to hit the high spots in the metropolis of Murchison and went along for the ride to Lewis Pass.
Murchison has an interesting museum and old buildings (including Hodgsons general store, whose layout and decor has changed little in a hundred years), as well as good coffee, ice cream and even a Four Square.
The out party looked happy to see us and we got to see the end of the St James walkway, with the twisted beech trees covered in alpine tree moss.
David’s party obviously felt that they hadn’t tramped enough already (after only six days) because they joined Beth and me and tramped up Robert Ridge to Angelus Hut for the night.
After the winding steep Pinchgut Track, the visibility improved and we had views of the rocky ridge. Time enough to enjoy a cuppa on the deck and catch up with Eileen (who was volunteer hut warden for the week).
The next day was a bit gloomy, but at least it was all downhil. Cascade Track was pretty. Initally we had views of waterfalls, then we were into the bush and following the stream to the lake.
For me, it was a great introduction to the Nelson Lakes area. Thank you, Katy and Roger, for organising it.