Ralph Martin
DAY 1: We arrived in Nelson to blustery, cool weather. After collecting packs and gas bottles, we clambered into the shuttle and headed off to the starting points for both groups. After we dropped off Team 2, my group headed to Lewis Pass at the start of the James Walkway.
Our destination was Ada Hut, four hours away, but we reached Cannibal Hut well within the designated time and decided to stay the night since the hut was nearly empty and we knew Ada Hut could be full.
Cannibal Hutt made a good platform to launch us onto Three Tarn Pass.
DAY 2: After a good night’s sleep we were up at the Mark of dawn. Off we trundled to Ada Hut and had a look around before backtracking five minutes to the tramp up to Three Tarn Pass.
It was an unmarked path, but after consulting the map and reading the explanations, we set off along the stream and found a couple of cairns. Then the going got tough and the tough got going. After a couple of hours, and finding ourselves in a precarious position, we decided this wasn’t the way. The terrain was steep, with barely a foothold, and we had to pull ourselves up using the solidly embedded vegetation. We descended to our starting point with some difficulty. Exhausted, we headed back to Ada Hut to regroup.
Later we decided to look for the elusive track, which we found hidden in the low-level vegetation.
We stayed at the hut that night. Inclement weather at Three Tarn Pass prompted us to review our route.
We decided to head up the James Walkway in the morning, branch off to the Waiau Pass Track and make for the Waiau Pass.
DAY 3: In the morning we passed Ada Cullers Hut and stopped in the open at Christopher Hut for a bite to eat.
While we were there, a striking Danish blonde woman appeared and asked if anyone had lost the camera battery she’d found on the track. The only female in the team claimed it.
Off again through open country, with sign of pigs in the vicinity. We’d heard there were wild horses, but all we saw were some fine-looking horses on a farm.
We headed up the Waiau River, and at 4.30pm decided that after walking 24 kilometres in warm weather we’d had enough for the day.
We found a lovely spot by the river and camped for the night.
DAY 4: Next morning we headed for the Waiau Pass through open country, trees, rock falls and river crossings. The weather was good—not too hot or windy. Along the way we passed Webster Falls and the Caroline Creek Bivouac, where we were swarmed by an army of sandflies.
The climb up to the Waiau Pass was quite steep. Near the top it was almost rock climbing and then we were into snow. The track down the other side was mostly scree and gave us a wonderful view of Lake Constance.
We were weary when we reached the bottom of Waiau Pass so we stopped just short of Lake Constance and camped for the night in the tussock. Climbing out of the tent in the early hours for a nature call, I was surprised to find ice on the tent.
DAY 5: What a lovely morning. The next stop at Blue Lake Hut wasn’t far so we explored the waterfalls and area by the lake.
We had a good climb around Lake Constance before descending to Blue Lake Hut. Our height gave us excellent views of the lake.
We arrived at midday with dark clouds rolling in. Two people opted for the hut and the other two for camping out, but when the clouds became ominous all four ended up in the hut.
What a good decision. The clouds opened soon after, and heavy rain fell during the night.
DAY 6: Up at the Mark of dawn again to persistent rain. The path to the toilet was a “stream” of flowing water. After a hearty breakfast, we set off in the rain to Sabine Hut along the Sabine River.
Thirty minutes down the track we encountered a raging side stream that was too dangerous to cross, so back to Blue Lake Hut we tramped and decided to check again at about four pm.
At one pm four trampers arrived at the hut and advised that it was now possible to cross after they’d waited two hours for the level to drop.
The track to Sabine Hut was very good. We noted some huge boulders that we presumed had been dislodged high up in the valley walls by the Kaikoura earthquake. It would have been frightening to be in the area when they must have come crashing down, smashing trees and bouncing across the river.
We arrived at Sabine Hut at 8.30pm, tired and hungry. The hut was empty of people, but a welcoming party of sandflies met us at the door.
DAY 7: Up at the Mark of dawn again. After breakfast we headed for the carpark along the interesting Speargrass Track. We spent most of the time in the trees, although there was a lengthy boardwalk high above a swampy area, complete with a viewing seat. DoC has done a good job of clearing a path through the fallen trees.
A local lady, who was staying at Speargrass Hut while her family was hunting chamois, gave us good information on the area.
We reached the carpark right on two pm, just as our pick-up was parking. They thought we’d been waiting in the trees for them to arrive.
Conclusion? It was an excellent tramp.